Title
Dimensional stability, strength, stretch, crease resistance, and air permeability of pure flax Swiss double piqué knits
Authors
NADIIA BUKHONKA

Received January 18, 2026
Published Volume 60 Issue 5-6 May-June
Keywords flax yarn, Swiss double piqué, stretch properties, elasticity, dimensional changes, air permeability

Abstract
This study explores how the average stitch length affects the dimensional, mechanical, and functional properties of pure flax Swiss double piqué fabrics produced on a circular knitting machine. The analysis covers structural features, dimensional changes after washing, strength, stretch, crease resistance, and air permeability. Increasing the average stitch length causes systematic structural changes, notably a decrease in the number of wales, while the number of courses remains relatively stable, resulting in a more open, less dense fabric. Structural loosening reduces the weight and thickness of the knitted fabrics. Dimensional changes are anisotropic, with the largest lengthwise changes occurring after the first wash and consistently greater widthwise changes, emphasizing the importance of initial washing for dimensional stability. Mechanical properties are highly direction-dependent: higher breaking forces and lower breaking elongations are found in the length direction, while widthwise extensibility is greater but with a lower breaking force. Increasing the average stitch length reduces both breaking force and elongation, resulting in a mechanically weaker fabric. Functional performance is also impacted: longer average stitch length with less fabric weight lowers lengthwise crease recovery but enhances air permeability. These findings show that stitch length is a key factor for pure flax Swiss double piqué fabrics, while yarn uniformity and elasticity are crucial for producing high-quality textiles.